WALKS, HIKING AND BACKPACKING
IN THE
VALEMOUNT AREA
COMPILED BY
ART CARSON
YELLOWHEAD OUTDOOR RECREATION ASSOCIATION
Short Walks and Family Hikes ------------------------ 2
Day and Overnight Hikes ------------------------------- 6
Extended Backpacking Trips ------------------------- 28
(C)1989-2009 Art Carson
Revision #8 May 2009
Note: The names of some trails in this guide are followed by a number. These numbers are as listed in the Friends of Valemount trails brochure. Because this guide categorizes trails as to difficulty, these trails do not appear in numerical order below. For a numerical listing, trail photos and a large map, see the Friends of Valemount website at http://www.valemount.com/trailsandattractions. Watch for number tags on trees to help navigate the numbered trails.
SHORT WALKS AND FAMILY HIKES
Little Lost Lake Trail #9
Description:
This trail winds upward from Highway 16 through a forest of Douglas fir, hybrid spruce, aspen and birch, then joins an old roadbed which climbs moderately for a short distance. This is an old forest fire access road built in the early 1960's and abandoned after the fire was brought under control. The old road soon levels out and proceeds to a picnic area at a small lake. Just before the lake, the trail splits. At the forks is one of the largest Douglas maple trees the author has seen in the Robson Valley. Beginning here, both branches of the trail pass through a lush avalanche-slope environment with dense shrubbery.
The straight-ahead branch goes directly to the picnic area, while the right branch will take you on a circle tour counterclockwise around the lake, beginning with a good view of a waterfall above the lake (well worth seeing even if you don't plan to circle the lake), and finally rejoining the main trail at the picnic table. Also, you can make another right turn a short distance up the right branch, and climb a very steep trail up the mountainside for fine views of the lake, the Robson Valley and, at the very end of this trail, another waterfall. Use caution on the upper trails in early spring - you may encounter a strip of ice on the narrow path, which could eject you over the side.
I have heard a report of a trail modification in the Little Lost Lake area which makes it possible to circle the lake by starting and returning directly from the picnic table site. At this writing I have not checked this out.
Beware of ticks in this area in spring - though they are not the variety that causes Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. Near the top of the grassy banks above the lake, to the right of the falls, is the Tete Jaune Cave, a fair-sized underground crack in rock not normally associated with cave formation. A short branch trail leads left off the high trail above the lake, and approaches the waterfall area well below the cave; you will have to scramble further up the dirt slopes to find the cave, which is at the foot of a band of rock cliffs and just about as far left toward the waterfall as it is possible to walk without excessive risk of a serious fall. Please note that at this writing, the only open entrance to the cave is a vertical chimney which requires equipment and some technical skill. For the technically competent, a tight rappel may be made down the chimney, with return by chimney climbing or the use of prusiks or ascenders. A second entrance, which was non-technical, is now buried under fallen rock and dirt which has accumulated since the first edition of this guide was written. It might be possible to re-locate this entrance from inside and re-open it.
When returning to your car, watch for the trail branching off to the left above the highway. If you do miss it, you will arrive at the weigh scales; simply walk east along highway 16 to your car.
Getting There:
From Valemount travel north on Highway 5 to Tete Jaune Junction, then take Highway 16 east toward Mount Robson for about 1.5 kilometers and park at the avalanche gate just east of the weigh scales. The trail starts at a B.C. Forest Service trail sign about 100 meters back toward the weigh scales.
Hiking Time:
Allow 1 1/2 to 2 hours round trip.
Mile 53 Ghost Town
Description:
A short walk to view the ruins of a short-lived railway construction town. Well-made stone and concrete fireplaces mark the sites of houses built for higher-up officials of Foley Bros. Welch & Stewart who contracted to build the entire BC section of the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway, now part of the Canadian National system.
Beside the tracks is the six-sided concrete base of an old railroad water tower. Along the shore of the Fraser River nearby, wooden pilings still stand from the wharves where barges were built to float supplies down the river to various railway construction points. There are still houses in Prince George built from the wood of these craft after their dangerous one-way trip was completed. The sternwheelers "BC Express, "Operator" and "Navigator" stopped here at the head of steam navigation on the upper Fraser. The latter two steamships were assembled at a long-vanished shipyard a few km upstream. Not long after steam navigation began on the river, it came to a sudden end. A dispute between the BC Express Co. and the Grand Trunk Pacific railway resulted in the GTP deliberately building two trestles across the Fraser too close to the water to allow steamboats to pass. The lift span on the GTP's magnificent Fraser River trestle at Prince George was raised occasionally for a few more years, to let steamships access docks just upstream. Then this lift span ceased operation, although the bridge itself carried Highway 16 over the Fraser River for decades and still carries CN Rail's Prince Rupert line. Its giant counterweights and rusted machinery remain in place, as a reminder of the age of steam navigation on the Upper Fraser River.
Railway builders Foley Bros. Welch & Stewart had big warehouses on the docks at mile 53, as did one of their subcontractors, the Siems Carey Company.
Walk up the road away from the tracks for about 75 metres, with the sound of Shelter Creek on your right. Watch for a footpath on the right, which crosses Shelter Creek on a footbridge. Use caution crossing this bridge as it is beginning to deteriorate. Do not lean on what remains of its railings. The bridge and an unmaintained trail beyond will take you to the main street of Mile 53 where faint ditches mark the routes of the town water system, later dug up by people salvaging the wooden 4 inch pipe.
On the right side of the "street" - now little more than a forest trail - a few old fireplaces can be found. Up another "street" branching to the left was the residential area reserved for FW&S Officials. Some fine stone work using small oval river rocks can be seen in the fireplaces here. The old houses have disappeared except for the fireplaces and part of the square-timber walls of one residence.
Getting There:
From Valemount travel north on Highway 5 to Blackman Road, and turn left. Follow Blackman Road to Old Tete Jaune Road and turn left again. Follow Old Tete Jaune Road until you cross the CN tracks and signs indicate that the road has become a forest road. Watch for signs indicating active logging, which means you may meet logging trucks. The gravel road passes a marsh area and then turns left up the hill and away from the tracks. At this point you may wish to park, as there is ample space at the bend in the road.
Hiking Time:
Allow 15 to 45 minutes depending on how much exploring is done.
Tete Jaune Salmon Spawning Grounds Trail #11
Description:
An easy twenty to forty minute walk (return) to a salmon spawning area and unique riverine ecosystem along the Fraser River. From the BC Forest Service Tete Jaune Salmon Spawning Grounds Recreation Site, the trail leads down the McLennan River and through a typical bottomland forest to the Fraser. Extensive areas of open country and numerous back channels make this a most interesting area to explore. Salmon may be seen spawning here in late July and early August.
Getting There:
From Valemount travel north on Highway 5 to Blackman Road, and turn left. Follow Blackman Road to Old Tete Jaune Road and turn left again. Follow Old Tete Jaune Road to the first railway crossing. Just across the tracks a sign marks the entrance to the Spawning Grounds Recreation Site.
Hiking Time:
Allow twenty to forty minutes round trip.
Trail condition update July 1998:
A new footbridge was constructed in 1997 to replace a foot-log on the trail.
Swift Current Creek Trail
Description:
An old road which has been brushed out for hiking and skiing. It leads up Swift Current Creek Valley, entering Mount Robson Park about 2 kilometers from the starting point. Not far inside the park the trail crosses a large creek. A debris torrent has damaged the trail at this point. There are a number of logs and some wood debris on the trail near the creek, and the former bridge (a railway flatcar) is nowhere in sight, having been pushed 300m downstream and buried. Use extreme caution if crossing this large, fast-flowing tributary of Swift Current Creek on one of the many fallen trees that span it near the trail. At this writing there are about 1.5 km. of trail choked by brush ingrowth beyond the former bridge site. This portion of the trail will make for a very wet hike if it is raining! Finally the open gravel flats of Swift Current Creek are reached. From here one may wander the alluvial plain at will.
See the Day & Overnight Hikes section for route suggestions beyond this point.
Getting There:
Follow highway 5 north from Valemount to Tete Jaune Junction. Continue on Highway 16 east to Swift Current Creek, the first bridge in highway 16 east of the junction at Tete Jaune. Just before the bridge, take Swift Current Creek Road to the left. Continue up the road entering an area of young trees. This is the former site of a sawmill operated by P.B. Abernathy, a well-known early resident. Park at the trailhead sign and obey any other signs that may be present.
Hiking Time:
Allow 2 to 3 hours round trip to the start of the gravel flats, and more if you wish to explore them.
R.W.Starratt Wildlife Refuge Trail Network #2
Description:
An interesting walk along dikes and through a large marsh and adjacent woodlands. Two wildlife-viewing platforms are provided, adjacent to the trails. From the first viewing platform, the trail follows a dike built in 1983 as part of a Ducks Unlimited project to enhance waterfowl habitat in the marsh. At the end of the dike, trails lead to the right via another dike and back to the highway, or left through patches of wetland forest to the second viewing platform. Many interpretive signs explain aspects of the life of the marsh.
By continuing on the left trail, one can walk all the way around the marsh. Continue to and through an abandoned farm field.rough an old homestead and enters an area of sparse black spruce forest. Turn left through the stunted forest along a trail constructed of corduroy (a mat of wood poles) covered in gravel. The trail crosses Selkirk Creek and continues counterclockwise around the marsh to the corner of Aspen Road and 17th Avenue. Walk west along 17th Avenue to Ash Street, then turn south, directly toward the marsh. At the south end of Ash Street a trail leads west and back to your vehicle.
In spring, the trail west from Ash Street is a good place to try calling a Virginia Rail: take two small rounded stones and tap them together twice, quite rapidly. Wait a half-second or so then repeat the double tapping sound. If you are lucky, you will hear a similar sound coming from the marsh - the answering call of a rail.
Getting There - Highway 5 Access:
The main entrance to the trail system is on Highway 5 at the Best Western Cranberry Lodge hotel, just south of Valemount. Due to Ministry of Highways regulations, the trailhead parking lot has been designed so that you must first enter the Best Western driveway, then immediately turn right and loop around the Best Western sign into the trailhead parking area.
Getting there - McKirdy Road Access:
Alternate access and parking exists at a viewpoint along McKirdy Road. To get there from downtown Valemount, turn south off 5th Avenue onto Ash Street. Pass the Valemount Secondary School, turn left on 13th Avenue and drive to the end, turn right on Aspen Road and then left on McKirdy Road. The parking area is on your right a short distance along McKirdy Road.
Hiking Time:
Allow 30 minutes round trip to the second viewing platform from the Highway 5 parking lot, or 1 to 1½ hours to walk around the marsh from/to either parking lot.
Valemount Mountain Bike Loop
Description:
This loop trail was built for a provincial mountain bike race in May 2009. It ascends from a residential area of Valemount as a series of machine-built switchbacks up a steep gully, then continues as a hand-built loop trail on the gentler slopes above. At several road crossings, watch for signs and/or ribboning to indicate where it continues on the other side of the road. Part of the trail follows an old logging road and the rest of it meanders under the canopy of a pleasant forest of Douglas fir and other species. The trail markings are arranges so that they will lead you around the loop in a counteclockwise direction.
Getting There:
From downtown Valemount, travel east on 5th Avenue, north on Main Street, east on Williams Drive and north on Juniper Street to the intersection of Juniper Street and Larch Street. If driving, find suitable parking nearby. Walk or bike a short distance up Larch Street until you see the trail ascending a gully on your right, just past the last (and currently the only) driveway on the right-hand side of the street.
Hiking Time:
Allow about 45 minutes to 1 hour to hike the loop from / to the corner of Juniper & Larch.
Biking Time:
Depending on ability & enthusiasm, probably 15 to 30 minutes.
DAY AND OVERNIGHT HIKES
Baker Ridge Trail
Description:
A strenuous hike from valley floor to alpine ridges in the Park Ranges of the Rockies, following an old cat trail maintained sporadically for hiking by BC Forest Service Recreation Department. A strong hiker may approach or return from the Baker Creek Natural Arch by this route (please see Natural Arch Trail description for safety warnings regarding the Arch area). For experienced route-finders, the headwaters of Nevin Creek has some possibilities for multi-day backpacking trips to a sizeable lake and icefields, starting from this same trailhead. The trail is actually an old bulldozed fireguard, which turns into a hand-built trail a little before the alpine. The bulldozer-trail section is becoming quite brushy but sees sufficient use by quads to keep the brush down somewhat. Some sections of the trail are very steep, though it is only about 2 hours to the top for a reasonably fit hiker. Be aware if hiking in this area that the author knows of at least two encounters between hikers and grizzly bears that have taken place on this trail. Although the chances of encountering a grizzly are not particularly great on any given trip, the bears have been seen from mountaintop to valley floor in the area.
Getting There:
From Valemount follow highway 5 north to Tete Jaune Junction, then take highway 16 west to the Baker Creek Rest Area. Distance from Valemount: 59.7 Km. The Baker Forest Road, paved for the first hundred yards, leaves the highway nearly opposite the rest area. Follow this road a short distance to the trail sign for the Baker Arch Trail which descends from the Baker Forest Road. Instead of descending the Arch trail, stay on the forest road. After making a broad right-hand turn onto the mountainside, cross ditches will be encountered. The road is only suitable for high clearance vehicles beyond this point. Depending on your vehicle type you may wish to find a parking spot and begin your hike here, or drive another 3 km and gain some altitude before starting out on foot. Keep to the uppermost road at all intersections. After three switchbacks, the end of the road is reached. There are good parking areas at or near the end of the road in one of three "landings" (log loading yards) that are currently not used for log loading. From road's end, walk along a skid trail through cedar trees still standing after other species were logged, heading in the same general direction the road was (roughly towards McBride). This skid trail at first descends very slighly, then traverses on the level and finally climbs a very slight amount. As the edge of the logging is reached, look for flagging tape marking a trail into the woods. This very short connector trail joins the old Baker Ridge Trail only 15 metres past the edge of the logged area. Turn right and proceed up the mountain.
Hiking Time:
Allow 4 to 5 hours round trip to the top of Baker Ridge.
Natural Arch Trail
Description:
A rough and strenuous hike along a typical Rocky Mountain stream course and up a steep ridge with a view of one of BC's most spectacular geological oddities, a stone arch which soars 50 feet above a small stream, spanning a 100-foot wide canyon. In dry weather late in the summer, EXPERIENCED HIGH COUNTRY HIKERS may closely approach the arch (cautiously). The trail follows the left side of the creek for 4.5 kilometers. It has received little maintenance lately and some sleuthing may be needed to find it in places. Part of it is washed out in this section, but one can scramble across the damaged area with some caution. The washout has been bypassed by a couple of single-log crossings of the creek and a section of trail on the other side, but the upper footlog can be quite hazardous at times. The reroute around the washout is therefore not recommended.
The trail heads steeply uphill after crossing a side creek. It continues uphill for 1.7 kilometers where the first view of the arch may be had. From here, strong, experienced hikers may continue up the goat trail to the top of the ridge and into the alpine, and make a circle route. Hike southwest along the skyline to the top of the Baker Ridge Trail, then down the ridge trail and back along the road to the 3-tiered sign. For experienced mountain hikers wishing to visit the arch itself, please note the following for your own safety
(1) The arch spans a steep, smooth bedrock chute covered in loose rocks, dirt and mud. Do not approach the arch in wet weather or early in the season, as a disastrous slide down the chute is possible.
(2) Best approach is from a point on the ridge trail approximately level with the arch, where an alpine bench slopes steeply down to the left into the streamcourse between the arch and the trail. Traverse this drainage somewhat below the level of the arch, and then climb past small groups of trees and approach the saddle behind the eastern (near) terminus of the arch.
(3) The urge to photograph the great soaring rainbow of rock from directly beneath can be almost irresistible. Please don't turn yourself into a statistic by falling down the chute while gazing skyward.
Getting There:
From Valemount follow highway 5 north to Tete Jaune Junction, then take highway 16 west to the Baker Creek Rest Area (Distance from Valemount: 59.7 Km.).The Baker Forest Road, paved for the first hundred yards, leaves the highway nearly opposite the rest area. Follow this road to the large Natural Arch Trail sign and find a parking spot. On foot, descend the old road just past the sign and continue up Baker (Holliday) Creek valley.
Hiking Time:
About 5 hours round trip to the first lookout. Allow a full, strenuous day for the loop trip described above.
Groeneveld Trail
Description:
A strenuous hike from valley bottom to alpine meadows in the Park Ranges of the Rocky Mountains. Follows a historic sheep drive route. Possible starting point for long trips above timberline. The well-defined trail ascends for 5 kilometers to an elevation of 1798 meters. From here one may wander along the marked route to true alpine and thence wander freely. As with all alpine areas, there may be grizzlies in this area.
Getting There:
From Valemount follow Highway 5 north to Tete Jaune Junction, then take Highway 16 west past the Dunster Station Road turnoff. From there, begin watching the side road names on your right: Lee Road, Read Road and McNaughton Road. Turn right on McNaughton road and continue straight ahead. The trail begins at the back of a gravel pit at the end of the road. It is hard to find at first; follow flagging tape.
Distance from Valemount: 58 Km.
Hiking Times:
Allow 5 hours round trip to the timberline.
Photos: See http://www.dunsterbc.net/scenery.htm (scroll down to find 3 photos from the Groeneveld Trail).
Dunster Trail / Duchastel Hut
Description:
From the trailhead on Pepper Road, the trail climbs steeply all the way to the alpine, except for a brief descent just beyond the lookout point about half way to the top. Once in the alpine one may wander in any direction. Good views of the Raush and Robson Valleys may be had. A flagged route leads around a shoulder and arrives at Bob Lake and the Duchastel Hut. Just beyond the lake a panoramic view of the Raush River Valley may be seen.
Getting There:
From Valemount follow highway 5 north to Tete Jaune Junction, then take highway 16 west to the Dunster Turnoff (Distance from Valemount: 52.8 Km.). Turn Left and follow Dunster Road across the Fraser River Bridge. Continue to Pepper Road and turn right, crossing the railroad tracks. Follow Pepper Road to its end and park at the gravel pit. The trail starts at the top of the pit. An old road may be followed from the pit if a less steep incline is preferred at the start. The old road switches back and intercepts the trail some distance above the gravel pit, but is considerably longer than the actual trail above the pit. There is currently a sign at the trailhead but a false trail has been created near the sign by people mistakenly following a small ridge of sand at the edge of the pit. This leads nowhere. The actual trail contours about 40m to the right at approximately the elevation of the signpost and then ascends the back of the gravel pit.
Hiking Time:
Allow 5 to 6 hours round trip to the alpine, 8 or more to the Raush viewpoint.
More Info and Photos: http://www.dunsterbc.net/tom%27s_cabin.html
Swift Current Creek Area (Partially within Mt. Robson Park)
Description:
This hike begins with easy grades on an old road that leads up Swift Current Creek Valley, entering Mount Robson Park about 2 kilometers from the starting point. The area is described here because it does not appear in Mount Robson Park's hiking route information. This part of the park is considered wilderness.
Not far inside the park a bridge crosses a stream that went on a rampage a few years ago, washing out the bridge and depositing several logs and piles of debris on the trail. With caution, the creek can be crossed on fallen trees. Maintenance may vary beyond this point! The old road suddenly disappears at the start of a long stretch of open gravel flats. From here one may wander the alluvial plain at will.
If you wish to explore upstream along the gravel flats, keep mainly to the left side of the main creek (facing upstream) until a beaver pond at the base of an avalanche slope forces you to cross the stream twice - once below the pond, and then back to the left side above it. There are no bridges - use caution when wading, and be aware that this stream comes partially from a large glacier which can melt vigorously on hot summer days, causing increased flow in the creek in late afternoon and evening.
Beyond the beaver pond, the old road can be found on the gravel flats and is a good hiking route for some distance. Nestled between the east branch of the creek and a rocky cliff at the very end of the gravel flats is a small cabin built originally by former residents of the area, and now maintained by BC Parks and YORA. The cabin is open for public use - first come, first served. Please treat it and its surroundings with respect. It is suggested that you advise Mount Robson Park headquarters if you are planning to do some extended hiking in the area or stay in the cabin. When last checked, the creek had moved adjacent to a small rock face just downstream of the cabin, blocking access along the bank. To access the cabin, go behind and partly over this rock.
For the more adventurous, there are more gravel flats and a spectacular headwall further up the valley beyond the cabin. To get there, it is best to cross the creek either in the gravel flats or via a tree that spans a narrow chute above the cabin, and proceed up the east side. Two sizeable ridges of Quartzite project out into the valley right to the stream bank and must be climbed over. Proceed upstream through increasingly open streamside areas to the headwall where the creek cascades down from high above.
It is also possible to reach the headwall area by bushwhacking directly up the mountain behind the cabin, then heading left along the subalpine slopes near timberline where a ridge of quartzite rock and a talus-filled gully cut across the face of the mountain. Continue left, traversing above the west fork of Swift Current Creek, until a small alpine valley is noticed leading up on your right. Follow this valley up to a pass leading to the east fork of the creek (a topographical map at 1:50,000 scale is of great assistance on hikes like this - if you are experienced at reading these). Cross this pass and descend the avalanche tracks and streamcourses below. This stream joins the east fork of Swift Current Creek at the foot of the headwall.
Please note that it is not advisable to attempt to return to the cabin along the west side of the creek (the right side facing downstream). Steep cliffs drop straight into fast water at some points along the west side, which you will discover too late to avoid a great deal of back-tracking to find a safe crossing place to the east bank. Experienced mountaineers have traversed the cliffs on the west bank in good weather, but these cliffs have wet, slippery areas that rise directly out of tumultuous white water and extend from creek level to more than a thousand feet above.
It is possible to visit the toe of the glacier and a small lake on top of the headwall if water levels are not extremely high. Cross the creek at the foot of the headwall, and ascend a lightly timbered slope on the left side of the headwall. At the level of the top of the headwall, it is possible to hike back over to the creek, glacier & lake. At this writing the glacier is melting at a very rapid rate and you may find that it has retreated far up the valley beyond the lake on top of the headwall.
Getting There:
Follow highway 5 north from Valemount to Tete Jaune Junction, then continue on Highway 16 east to Swift Current Creek, the first bridge in highway 16 east of the junction at Tete Jaune. Just before the bridge, take Swift Current Creek Road to the left. Continue up the road, entering an area of young trees. This is the former site of a sawmill operated by P.B. Abernathy, a well-known early resident. Park at the trailhead sign and obey any other signs that may be present.
Hiking times:
To the cabin & back should take a good hiker about 8 hours depending on the difficulty of stream crossings. Hiking to the headwall and back would make for a very long day, by either the high pass route or the east bank route. I made a day trip from the highway to the Swift Current headwall & back by mountain-biking to the cabin, hiking the high pass route to the headwall, returning to the cabin by the east bank route and then biking back to my vehicle. This took over 13 hours and included a rather interesting night ride down the gravel flats by moonlight and headlamp.
It might be advisable to stay overnight at the cabin and start out for the headwall from the cabin in the morning. And if you plan to climb to the glacier above the headwall it might be a good idea to spend a second night at the cabin on the way out, and hike out on day 3.
Mica Mine Trail #12
Description:
A strenuous climb to some abandoned mica workings at the 7,000 foot level of Mica Mountain. The route begins by following old logging trails and roads which were cleared of brush for hiking in 1992, then picks up the original mule trail at the top of an early 60's logging area. Mules were once used to freight large pieces of mica - or "ising-glass" as it was once called - down from the mine, which is a hole in the ground at approximately 7,000 feet above sea level on a steep alpine slope. The old mule trail meanders up the brushy mountainside staying roughly 100 to 200 meters to the left of the lip of Tete Creek Canyon. At the mine, a pile of large mica flakes marks the mule loading area. On the ridge above the workings, a crescent-shaped rock shelter may be seen. It is apparently a place for heli-hikers to await pickup.
Getting There:
From Valemount, travel north on Highway 5 to Blackman Road. Turn left on Blackman Road and follow it for several miles, then turn left onto Old Tete Jaune Road. About 2 km. down Old Tete Jaune Road, turn left on Mica Mountain Forest Road. If you come to a railway crossing, you have gone about 150 m. too far - turn around and come back to Mica Mountain Forest Road. Approximately 9.5 kilometers up the forest road, a not-very-conspicuous sign marks the trailhead.
Hiking Time:
For the average hiker, plan on spending about 8 hours on this strenuous hike.
Mount Terry Fox Trail #8 (Partially within Mount Terry Fox Provincial Park)
Description:
The Mount Terry Fox trail provides a long climb to the top of the mountain that was named after Terry in 1981. Several viewpoints overlooking the Robson Valley provide pleasant rest-stops along the way. Seventeen switchbacks of varying length lead up to a pine-covered ridge-top, which the trail follows. In the near future, this may be reduced to 11 or so switchbacks if a plan can be implemented to use a logging road for higher-altitude public vehicle access to the trail. Near timberline, the trail is indistinct; follow rock cairns and occasional tree markings and watch for detectable parts of the trail on the ground.
Above timberline, follow the height of land over a couple of minor summits, past a radio repeater and on up to the main peak. At least 4 hours are required and there is no water until a small lake in the alpine is reached, just beyond the radio tower. The views from the top of the mountain are excellent.
It is possible to make a circle trip out of this with a little moderate bushwhacking on the return portion. In this case you should first place a vehicle or bicycle at the traffic gate on the Jackman Ridge forest road (Off highway 5 at the BC Tel microwave tower south of Tete Jaune, then left along the Trans Mountain pipeline) or at Jackman Siding on the CN railway at the end of Jackman Road, south of Tete Jaune.
From the lake behind the radio tower, head northwest and gain the ridgetop leading north from the tower, at a low point not much higher than the lake elevation. Stay at about this height, with the basin of Hogan Creek descending on your left, until the ridgetop descends to meet you again (almost - you must scramble up fifty feet or so). You are now on top of Jackman Ridge, a fine alpine area bisecting the angle between the Robson Valley and the western end of the Yellowhead Pass.
Follow Jackman Ridge northwest until it descends to timberline, keeping to the left, or sun-facing, side of the ridgetop. Continue down the ridge making sure you do not stray to the right side. Shady, north- facing slopes there are much more difficult to bushwhack through. Occasionally, an old-time horse trail may be encountered only to be lost again in the encroaching forest. If you maintain a line down the left side of the ridgetop, you should eventually intercept a small logging area where a haul road will lead you back to your vehicle on Jackman Ridge forest road.
The alternate destination, slightly further south, is Jackman Siding which you can reach by peeling left off the ridge about two thirds of the way down and heading downhill directly toward the CN rail line. A topo map here may help to prevent confusion about which way to walk along the railway if you reach it at a point out of sight of the siding area. Studying the area visually from highway 5 before attempting this may also help you to keep your bearings.
Also note, if you are walking south, that any train approaching you from behind is descending a considerable grade after crossing the Yellowhead Pass. Its engineer will often have his locomotives throttled right back to a quiet idle, and on these smooth welded rails the train may approach you quite silently. Be aware of this. Stay well away from the track when trains are passing on this extremely busy railway. Technically, you are trespassing here so if you were to be completely conscientious, you might even choose to walk in the woods parallel to the track, no easy feat in this broken terrain. It would be better, if you can, to use your best orienteering skills and arrive at the railway at or near Jackman Siding where your vehicle is parked, or cross it on the Jackman Ridge forest road if you have left your vehicle there. I managed to hit the railway within 300 feet of Jackman Siding.
Another circle trip is possible for strong hikers by descending a few hundred feet into the alpine basin at the headwaters of Terry Fox Creek, which flows north just beyond the radio tower. From there, one can traverse northeast across Terry Fox Creek basin and scramble up between some turrets of rock on the side of a secondary peak forming the divide between Terry Fox Creek and Marathon Creek, just north of the main summit. On this ridge is a brass plaque attached to a large piece of quartzite rock, commemorating Terry Fox. From the plaque, follow the ridge toward the summit, descending to the right just before the end of the ridge to avoid some steep and exposed rock. Just below the line of turrets mentioned above, turn toward the main Mt. Terry Fox summit again and access it via a col a few hundred feet below. From there, the return trip can be made along the summit ridge to the radio tower and back down to the trail.
Getting There:
From Valemount travel north on Highway 5 to Stone Road, which is almost opposite the Mount Terry Fox rest area. Turn right on Stone Road, then immediately left on Tinsley Road. Cross the CNR tracks and follow signs leading to the Mount Terry Fox Trail parking lot.
Hiking Time:
Allow a full day for the round trip to and from the summit.
Kiwa/Raush trail (old logging road brushed out 1986)
Description:
This interesting low-to-medium elevation trail provides access to a wilderness river valley at a point many miles upstream from its mouth at the Fraser.
Getting There:
From the end of Old Tete Jaune Road, take the Tete Jaune-Croydon Forest Road north for about 9.5 Kilometers to a "Y" sign, then turn left onto the Kiwa Forest Road. After crossing a bridge and cattleguard, Keep right at the next intersection and follow the road up the valley of the west fork of the Kiwa River.
At Km. 19, where a tributary stream flows down a gravelly outwash across the valley, look for the ruins of a dam built in the 1920's by the Etter & MacDougall Sawmill Company. The floodgates were opened every spring to flush logs down the river after the winter's log harvest had been placed on the ice and on gravel bars along the river. Park where the road begins to deteriorate - it has been used as a winter road as recently as March 1994 but its summer condition may be poor - and continue on foot. At km. 28, turn right on a spur road and park at the end, in the middle of a clear-cut logging block. At the far end of the logged area a trail leads into the woods and down the slope to the old Kiwa- Raush connecting road. Continue along this old road down a switchback and past a trapper's cabin at a second switchback. The old road is OK for hiking or for a long canoe portage down to the Raush River marshes from where the river may be reached. It is approximately 4 kilometers to the valley floor from the end of the driveable road. If canoeing, beware of a logjam stuck on the upstream end of an island, at the foot of a long rapid near the river's mouth. A good plan might be to portage your canoe along a road on the right side of the river, then bring it down the steep wooded slope to an eddy beside the logjam, where you can continue safely down to the Fraser River & thence to McBride. As with all river canoeing, it is advisable to know the hazards before you start down the river. The day before I did this run I hiked up Raush Valley Road and hung my red fleece jacket in a bush on shore to warn of the logjam ahead.
Hiking Time:
Allow a full day for this exploration.
Swift Creek/Crooked Creek Ridge Route #7
Description:
Consists of a recent fire access road through subalpine fir and pine forests to the timberline on an unnamed ridge between Swift Creek and Crooked Creek in the Rocky Mountains overlooking the Rocky Mountain Trench. The access road was upgraded while fighting a 2004 forest fire. It exactly follows the route of a fireguard built in 1994 when a previous forest fire, further up Swift Creek, began to look as if it might threaten the town of Valemount. Charred forest near the upper end of this road is part of a back-burn conducted while fighting the 2004 fire.
Wildflowers in the area include some pink lupines as well as the more common blue ones.
Getting There:
Travel north from Valemount on Highway 5 for 1 Km. Turn right on Loseth Road. Watch for railroad tracks on your right and take the first side road that crosses the tracks. Keep right across benchland to the foot of the mountains, then "take the high road" at all intersections except as noted below. On the steeper sections of road, "water bars" (shallow cross ditches) have been built to reduce erosion. These ditches are designed to be passable by four wheel drive vehicles, but use caution. After a long, fairly steep ascent through young pine trees, the road forks. The branches come together again after a short distance. The lower branch is in the best condition at this writing. At a landing near the top of old logging, you will find the firefighting road going up the slope at the same point where you enter the landing. From here, the road has very steep sections. At the end of the road, a faint trail is flagged to the right and up to the treeline.
Hiking Time:
Allow 3 to 5 hours round trip from the end of the fire road to the alpine ridge-top, or longer if upper part of road impassable for vehicles.
Five-Mile (McKirdy Meadows) Trail #5
Description:
A vigorous climb to alpine meadows not far from Valemount. From the Forest Service trail sign at the far end of the old Swift Lookout clearing, the trail descends for a short distance and crosses a ravine behind the lookout tower, then climbs steeply for 3.2 kilometers to timberline. Once in the alpine one may wander anywhere. At a low point in the trail not long after reaching the first large alpine meadows, a signed and marked route leads left off the main trail. This will take you to the YORA Swift Creek (McKirdy) cabin. Registration is required if you want to stay in the cabin, and there is a small fee to cover maintenance, etc. Check locally to find out where to register before using the cabin overnight.
Circle routes are possible using other trails described below which also lead to the McKirdy Meadows alpine area.
Getting There:
Follow 5th Avenue eastward through Valemount, across the railway tracks to the end of the street. Turn right and proceed south for a short distance to Hillside Drive. Turn left on Hillside and watch for signs indicating the Swift Mountain Forest Road. Take this road upwards to the right from Hillside Drive and past the village telephone and television relay site with its clusters of towers and dishes, which should be on your left. Cross a cattleguard and continue up the mountain. The road from this point is steep. In wet weather four wheel drive may be required. Park at an abandoned forest fire lookout site on top of a minor summit at the end of the road.
Hiking Time:
Allow 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours to reach the alpine meadows, and the better part of a day for the round trip including lunch stops and relaxing here and there in the meadows.
Swift Creek Loop #6
Description:
This trail was built in the early 2000's by local residents, including a number of mountain biking enthusiasts. It passes through a number of different types of environment as it travels up one side of Swift Creek, across a footbridge and down the other side. It can be combined with other trails to make a longer hike, by travelling it clockwise at the beginning of a long hike or counterclockwise at the end. In the clockwise direction, the Swift Creek Loop starts from Main Street in Valemount and travels upstream along a dike on the northwest side of Swift Creek. At the end of the dike, it ascends an old road and then turns to the right onto a sandy ridge, climbing steadily through open pine forests to an excellent viewpoint above the creek. The slopes below the viewpoint are a small sample of Interior Grassland. Although this type of grassland environment extends north well into the Yukon in drier areas, this viewpoint may well be its northern limit in the Rocky Mountain Trench. At Valemount's latitude in the trench, the grassland ecosystem exists only on warm, dry south- facing slopes that are steep enough to absorb an unusual amount of the sun's heat early and late in the season. Grassland plants such as Blanket Flower*, Early Yellow Loco Weed and Pasture Sage can be found here.
Another vest-pocket grassland at a somewhat higher elevation may be seen along the South Ridge Trail.
From the viewpoint, the trail enters somewhat more dense forest where more shade-loving plants typical of the montane forests in this area can be found. It follows various benches and finally descends to the Swift Creek bottomland and the Columbian Forest zone - the home of, among other things, big Western Red Cedar trees and Devil's Club. Crossing the creek on a sizeable footbridge, the trail turns downstream through magnificent old cedars and evidence of early-day logging. A short distance downstream it turns away from the creek and ascends a moss-covered north-facing slope where plants of cool, damp places can be found. Arriving at a logging road of 1950's vintage, the trail turns to the right and passes through an area of large old hemlock and other trees. Younger hemlocks are advancing into the old road right-of-way on both sides of the trail.
Eventually an early-day road junction is reached. The trail is signed to indicate that it enters a much more recent logging trail between two of the older roads. Following this trail uphill, it arrives at the Swift Mountain Forest Road about 1.2 km below the Selwyn Traverse trailhead. For a longer hike, ascent to the Selwyn trailhead or one of the mountain bike trails described below. To complete the Swift Creek Loop itself, descend the Swift Mountain road. It will take you to Hillside Drive and thus back to downtown Valemount.
Getting There (northwest end):
Cross the railway tracks at the east side of the town of Valemount and park in a convenient location anywhere along Main Street which parallels the tracks. If you are walking the trail clockwise, you will leave Main Street at the northwest end of the Swift Creek Bridge and head upstream. In this case a parking spot near the bridge might be convenient - although if you plan to loop back to your vehicle, it makes little difference where on Main Street you park, as you will be walking the whole length of it at some point.
Getting there (southeast end):
Park along Main Street as above. The southeast end of the Swift Creek Loop is accessed from the south end of Main Street where it becomes Whisky Fill Road and continues out of town. At this point, close to the 5th Avenue railway crossing in Valemount, you will find Hillside Drive. Ascend this road about 1.5 km. to the Swift Mountain Forest Road. Ascend the Swift Mountain Forest Road about 2.5 km, watching for the Swift Creek Loop trail sign on your left.
Getting there (as a continuation of a Selwyn Traverse hike):
When you arrive at the Swift Mountain Road and the Selwyn Traverse ends, descend about 1 km. to the Swift Creek trail sign and turn to the right onto a recent logging skid trail which forms the beginning of the loop.
Hiking Time:
Allow about 2 to 3 hours for the round trip to/from your vehicle.
*May 2009: The blanketflowers mentioned above are no longer in evidence, having been removed from the area by persons unknown who left only a large number of holes in the ground where the plants used to be. At this writing I know of no existing blanketflowers in the Robson Valley.
Andreas's Lower Loop #6 and Andreas's Upper Loop
Description:
These trails provide a remarkable mountain bike descent through the forest to the north of the Swift Mountain Forest Road. Andreas Thoni is said to be the mastermind behind these Laundry Chutes of Doom.
The upper loop is steep but passable on foot or perhaps by truly hard-core mountain bikers. It begins its descent directly from the sixth switchback up the Swift Mountain road and connects with the lower loop at the old logging road that forms part of the lower loop. "Structures" along this trail include a long, narrow wooden bridge about 6 feet off the ground that spans a small stream.
The lower loop ascends along an old logging road from the Swift Mountain Road and then suddenly dumps over the bank and winds downhill through the woods and across another old road to join the Swift Creek Loop. "Structures" include several ramps and jumps made of wooden poles, and a small wooden bridge. There is a drinking water pipe at the bridge. It is possible to bypass all the structures on foot or if your mountain bike does not seem to want to travel over them.
Getting There (upper loop):
See the directions for accessing the five-mile trail. Ascend the Swift Mountain Road to the fourth switchback (consider the Selwyn Traverse trailhead to be the first one).
Getting there (lower loop):
The entrance to this trail is marked by a small pile of rocks beside the Swift Mountain road about 270m. above the Swift Creek Loop trailhead and 730m. below the Selwyn Traverse trailhead.
Hiking Times:
Allow about 1 hour to wander down the hill and see what Valemount's enterprising young people are up to. Another hour will likely be needed if you explore both loops and ascend up the road back to your vehicle.
Biking times:
Almost no time at all if you live. Longer if you don't.
Phil's Descent
Description:
This rough trail was built as a mountain bike descent by Phillip and Tony Parisi. It leaves the Swift Mountain Forest Road at the 9th switchback and descends the hillside south of the road to join the Selwyn Traverse, with a branch to a viewpoint overlooking Selkirk Creek basin and the Robson Valley. The viewpoint trail branches off at a south-pointing switchback about two thirds of the way down the hill. Salvage logging in the area has made the trail somewhat difficult to follow in places, although it is not significantly blocked off by any logging debris. The upper end is easier than the lower end to locate, as it connects to the road directly at the switchback. The trail has no "structures" at present but has the longest steep drop of any mountain bike trail in the area.
Getting there:
As for McKirdy Meadows (Five Mile) trail but begin counting swithcbacks as you ascend the Swift Mountain Road, with the Selwyn Traverse trailhead as # 1. At switchback # 7, look for the trail descending into the woods from the right hand side of the road. Arriving at the Selwyn Traverse, turn right and return to the Swift Mountain Road.
Hiking time:
Allow about an hour and 15 minutes to descend the trail, plus a few minutes to visit the viewpoint on the way down. If you are making a loop of it by walking back up the road to your vehicle, add about another hour and a half.
Biking time:
Possibly 15 to 20 minutes for the descent if all you lose is altitude (have you noticed yet - this isn't really a mountain biking guide?).
Selwyn Traverse #4
Description:
A trail running along the hillside from Swift Mountain Forest Road almost to Packsaddle Creek, passing through the logging block just north of Packsaddle Creek. It is an interesting hike in itself, and also acts as a feeder providing access to a number of other trails as described below. Horseback riding, skiing, hiking, and snowshoeing have been done by residents along this trail system. It is sometimes used for commercial trail rides. A few wet spots may be churned up by horses' hooves. Most of the trail is dry and has actually benefited greatly from the smoothing and leveling effect of horse traffic. Many parts of the trail on steep side slopes are too narrow for modern snowmobiles, although small vintage machines of not over 2-foot ski-to-ski spacing have used it with some difficulty. If you are a mechanized trail user, you might want to try some of the more open and well-surfaced routes to be found in the area.
The Selwyn Traverse was used in 1990 as part of a horseback endurance-ride competition route, leading ultimately to Dave Henry Pass via the East Canoe Forest Road.
From the trailhead on Swift Lookout Road, the trail follows a noticeable bench on the hillside. Although side trails lead down the mountain at many points along the trail, you should plan on walking the whole thing or else returning the way you came. These side trails pass through private property and some of them tend to dump you into people's back yards. At this writing, the official trail is marked with small number signs. Unofficial access routes have no signs.
The trail stays at almost the same elevation past Selkirk Creek and Tapli Creek, the first of 5 small to medium mountain streams you will cross on this hike. Forests vary from Douglas fir stands to almost pure aspen, with a few large fir "vets" which have survived forest fires that eradicated all their contemporaries. About 1/2 kilometer northwest of Selkirk creek, look for cougar claw marks in a very large white birch tree. This tree has great spreading limbs that no pussycat over 85 pounds could resist sprawling out on. Many aspen trees, too, have claw marks on them. Aspens have bark that scars permanently if scratched. Each aspen tree keeps a permanent visual record of any and all bear cubs, etc. that may have climbed it during its lifetime.
The trail passes through areas where 4 out of every 5 aspen stems have been cut down in order to stimulate new growth for deer and moose to eat.
At McKirdy Creek, a larger stream than the others on this walk, the trail swings up along the creek, following it closely. Just above an old water intake dam, the trail crosses McKirdy Creek on a small footbridge and begins climbing more steeply. It crosses a small road right-of-way and continues to ascend. Follow the signs past the intersection at the foot of the McKirdy Creek Trail.
After ascending a dry gully and swinging out across a false azalea-covered slope, the trail levels out again about 400 feet higher than the section before McKirdy Creek. This altitude gain is necessary to avoid crossing private land, whose corners ascend the valley sides at 45 degrees. A narrow bench is followed as far as Snowcourse creek, where the bottom suddenly drops out of the world.
The trail descends steeply, crosses Snowcourse Creek, follows another bench for a short distance, and then begins a more or less steady descent. The total altitude loss is probably close to 1000 feet. Finally, relatively flat land is reached and the trail levels out once more. It passes through an area where a December 1995 windstorm blew down a large number of trees. Home Creek is crossed, and not long after that, the trail enters a 1979 clear-cut logging area that has regenerated with a healthy stand of young lodgepole pine. Following old logging roads, the trail passes the intersection of the Packsaddle Loop and winds through the forest to the southeast trailhead.
It is easiest to walk this trail in a southeaserly direction, starting at the high end on Swift Mountain Forest Road. Have a vehicle spotted at the Canoe Forest Road end for the return trip (see below).
For continuations of this hike, check descriptions of the various connecting trails in this gude and the Friends of Valemount trail brochure.
Getting There (north end):
From the centre of Valemount, travel east to the east end of 5th Avenue, cross the railway tracks and turn right onto Whisky Fill Road (Main Street) and then almost immediately turn left onto Hillside Drive. Ascend Hillside Drive until a sign tells you it has become the Swift Mountain Forest Road. Continue up the mountain. About three kilometers up the road, watch for the Selwyn Traverse trailhead sign on the right. Park your car well off the road and proceed southeast on the trail.
Getting There (south end):
Begin as for the north end, described above. However do not turn onto Hillside Drive. Instead follow Whisky Fill road a few kilometers to Canoe Forest Road and turn left. After a few more kilometers, a cluster of signs indicates the junction of the East Canoe and West Canoe forest roads. Park here if you have a low-clearance vehicle or are unfamiliar with the area. Another road exits from this intersection - a small unnamed logging road branching off up the hillside. Walk up this steep little road to a rapidly regenerating logged area, and generally keep right at any questionable intersections within the logging block
Hiking Time:
2 to 5 hours depending on direction, 1-way or round trip etc.
McKirdy Lake Trail
Description:
This steep trail was built in 1961 by Walt McKirdy and the late Doug McKirdy. It was the second trail to access the alpine area around McKirdy Mountain, the first being the South Ridge Trail in the 1920's or 30's. The McKirdy Lake Trail branches off the Selwyn Traverse just northwest of McKirdy Creek and climbs the ridge NW of McKirdy Creek to a small lake in subalpine meadows at 6200 feet, the first water encountered on the climb. From the lake, you can descend the way you came, continue to the true alpine or do various loop hikes. If you wish to continue past the lake, walk northeast from the lake across a relatively flat subalpine meadow, following a small ditch that supplies the lake with part of its water. Opposite a private lodge on the hillside above the meadow, you may either turn left toward the building and continue up the trail and across a rockslide to the alpine, or turn right and descend the west branch of the McKirdy Creek Trail. The latter joins the Selwyn Traverse about 1 km. southeast of the McKirdy Lake Trail. Or for a somewhat longer branch, head to the alpine as described and when ready to descend, look for the McKirdy Creek Trail's east branch which arrives at the alpine within a few metres of the west branch but in the opposite direction on the hillside. This can be descended as for the West Branch. Or route-find your way in the alpine to the top of the Five Mile (McKirdy Meadows) trail and use that trail for the descent. This will return you to your car on the Swift Mountain forest road at the northwest end of the Selwyn Traverse. To find the top of the Five Mile trail for the descent, travel northwest along the left edge of the meadow above the lake until you see the trail becoming more and more evident near the northwest corner of the meadow. The trail becomes very evident, at least in summer, at the turnoff to the Y.O.R.A. Swift Creek (McKirdy) cabin. A sign here points to the cabin. Your route down the mountain can be determined by observing which way people would be coming FROM when they encounter the hiking sign.
For strong hikers, it is possible to walk the skyline all the way to the main peak of McKirdy Mountain off to the southeast. Work your way around to the right of the peak - watch for slippery mud and small snow cornices here early in the season - and arrive at the face which is oriented toward the Canoe River and some farm fields below. The peak may be climbed from here, or the Summit Trail may be used for descent. To find the Summit Trail, head west from the peak across a smooth, rounded alpine dome just above timberline. Follow the ridge down from the alpine with McKirdy Creek valley always just to your right. The trail will be encountered in or near a low saddle in the ridge; it heads down into McKirdy Creek's drainage basin from the saddle, joining the McKirdy Creek Trail. From the foot of this trail you will have to retrace your steps along the Selwyn Traverse to your car - making it a long day indeed.
Getting There:
See the description under "Getting There (North End)" for the Selwyn Traverse. There are also several intermediate access points off the Selwyn Traverse, but these are for emergency use only as they cross private property. Many of them tend to dump you into someone's back yard where you are likely to be barked at by dogs who would like you to return all the way to the top of the mountain very fast.
Hiking Time:
Allow 4 to 6 hours return to the lake, 5 to 7 hours return to McKirdy Meadows, and 8 to 12 hours for the sheep trail/summit ridge/summit trail loop. Add 1 to 1 1/2 hours one way along the Selwyn Traverse from Swift Mountain Forest Road to McKirdy Creek.
McKirdy Creek Trail #4a
Description:
A relatively gentle ascent to the alpine at McKirdy Meadows, branching off the Selwyn Traverse on a bench just southeast of McKirdy Creek and passing through secluded glades and along sunlit ridges of the McKirdy Creek drainage basin directly east of Valemount. The sound of rushing mountain water accompanies the hiker for much of the route. Ascends McKirdy Creek Basin to a small gully at about the 5200 foot level, where it branches in two directions: to the right you can access the McKirdy/Swift Creek Pass at 6,500 feet elevation. The left branch loops to a private lodge at McKirdy Lake and then continues around to the right to join the right branch at the treeline, forming a good loop hike (but with about 150m. of boulder-covered ground to cross - see below). The trail is machine-built beginning at a private access point near the trailhead, up the left branch to the edge of a rockslide slightly beyond the private lodge. On the other side of the rockslide, the left branch continues as a hand-built trail that rejoins the right branch at the treeline in the McKirdy/Swift pass. The two branches traverse the hillside in opposite directions from the lip of the pass at the edge of extensive alpine meadows.
Small aluminum signs on trees mark junctions with the McKirdy Mountain Summit trail and other routes.
To visit McKirdy Lake, take the left branch of the McKirdy Creek Trail and turn left off the trail in a flat meadow about 100m before the private lodge. The lake (a small subalpine tarn with the biggest fairy shrimp I have ever seen - about 1" long) is about 175m across the meadow. A particularly convenient loop hike is possible at this point by heading southwest from McKirdy Lake to the upper end of the McKirdy Lake trail. Descending the McKirdy Lake trail will bring you back to the Selwyn Traverse not far from where you began your ascent to the alpine.
Getting There:
As for McKirdy Lake Trail, above. This trail leaves the Selwyn Traverse about 1 km southeast of the McKirdy Lake Trail and on the opposite side of McKirdy Creek. A small aluminum sign marks the trailhead on the Selwyn Traverse.
Hiking Time:
Allow 4 to 6 hours round trip to McKirdy Meadows, plus time to wander and/or take alternate trails on the descent. To this add 1 to 1 1/2 hours for the traverse across the Selwyn Traverse to the start of the McKirdy Creek Trail.
McKirdy Mtn. Summit Trail #4b
Description:
Branches off McKirdy Creek Trail at a tree with small aluminum route signs at about 4500 ft. elevation, just below main McKirdy Creek bridge. For ski touring, a less steep route leaves the McKirdy Creek trail beyond the bridge, at the top of the creek ravine. This route is also signed, but at this writing it will need some cleanout before being of practical value. The two routes converge on the hillside east of the creek, and from there the trail climbs to the ridge between McKirdy Creek and Snowcourse Creek. It follows the ridge to the summit in much the same way that the Mt. Terry Fox Trail follows the Teepee Creek/Hogan Creek ridge. It is possible to enter the back country of the Selwyn range by traversing the summit, although there are less strenuous ways. An interesting circle trip is possible by walking the skyline northeast from the general area of the summit all the way to McKirdy Meadows. Coming down off the rocky ridge into the McKirdy Creek/Swift Creek pass, descend via the McKirdy Creek Trail, which leaves the meadows at the south end of the pass.
Getting There:
As for McKirdy Creek Trail, above.
Hiking Time:
Allow 7 to 9 hours round trip to the summit, or 8 to 12 hours for the skyline ridge traverse around McKirdy Creek basin. To this add 1 to 1 1/2 hours for the hike across the Selwyn Traverse to the start of the McKirdy Creek Trail and back.
McKirdy Mountain South Ridge Trail
Description:
Early-day pack trail up ridge NW of Packsaddle Creek, climbing to a long subalpine ridge-top which leads to the base of McKirdy Mountain's final summit. Historical interest, but origin unknown. I have partially restored this trail on its original route. Passes some unusual extra-dry climate areas on small benches with unique ecology (Sage, etc.). The trail is long abandoned but was once well constructed, at least in lower sections. The upper sections are very difficult to trace except in old growth areas. Follow the cliff-tops to the top of the South Ridge, and then follow the right-hand side of the ridge top through chains of small subalpine meadows and the upper edges of burnt-over areas to the base of the summit. Old hunting camps in subalpine. Has on occasion been used as a route to the summit of McKirdy Mountain. Status as mentioned above is basically unchanged since the first edition of this trail guide.
Getting There:
Travel east through Valemount and cross the railroad tracks, then turn right on Whisky Fill Road. Follow Whisky Fill Road for approximately 3 Km. to Canoe Forest Road and turn left. Use headlights at all times and watch for logging trucks. Follow Canoe Forest Road for about 4 Km. to a major intersection and a group of signs. Here, take the Selwyn Traverse, which is marked by signs, for about 1.5 km to a 1979 clear-cut that is now densely covered in young lodgepole pine trees. As you enter the old logging area, look for a pile of rocks and some signs marking the junction of the Selwyn Traverse and the Packsaddle Creek Loop. Follow the Packsaddle Creek Loop directly uphill and out of the logged area. The trail runs southeast through dense second-growth forest to the lip of Packsaddle Creek's ravine, where the roar of the creek far below is suddenly heard. Here turn left onto the South Ridge trail.
Hiking Time:
Allow 6 to 8 hours round trip to the alpine areas around the base of the main peak, and another 2 to 3 hours if the summit is to be attempted.
Trail Condition Update August 2005:
This trail was restored to relatively good walking condition for about one third of the way up, in 1995. A further several hundred metres was cleared in 2003. At this writing several large, bushy trees have fallen on the trail near the upper end of the cleared portion.
Packsaddle Creek Loop #3 and Upper Packsaddle Creek Trail
Description:
The Packsaddle Creek Loop branches off the Selwyn Traverse and ascends Packsaddle Creek to a footbridge about 1.5 km upstream from the East Canoe Forest Road. Cross the footbridge and descend a trail on the opposite side of the creek, built by a local trapper and used for hiking with permission. This loop returns you to the East Canoe Road not far from your starting point at the Selwyn Traverse southeast trailhead. Do not interfere with traps you may see in tree cavities, rock crevices and wooden enclosures beside this section of the trail.
From the east end of the footbridge, the Packsaddle Creek Trail continues up the rugged valley of Packsaddle Creek another 2.5 km. Well constructed by various local residents in the 1970's but never completed, this trail often closely follows the large and noisy mountain torrent of Packsaddle Creek, providing a potentially rewarding hike for those who appreciate the majesty of mountain water.
Beyond the first avalanche slope, the trail is sketchy and not recommended. The stringers of an incomplete bridge about a quarter mile beyond the first avalanche slope have rotted and collapsed, making the upper portions of the trail on the west bank somewhat challenging to access unless a natural crossing log can be found nearby.
If completed, the trail could provide summer access to the back country between Valemount & Red Pass. It would remain unsuitable for winter use because of avalanche danger.
One of the many avalanche slopes along the upper, unmaintained portion of the trail beyond the old upper footbridge site is rather unique in that it is caused solely by the frequent collapse of a frozen waterfall.
Rock cliffs just beyond the upper footbridge site are good areas to view mountain goats in early spring.
It's a good idea to shout loudly when approaching densely vegetated avalanche slopes, to warn any grazing bears of your approach.
Getting There:
Travel east through Valemount and cross the railroad tracks, then turn right on Whisky Fill Road. Follow Whisky Fill Road for approximately 3 Km. to Canoe Forest Road and turn left. Use headlights at all times and watch for logging trucks. Follow Canoe Forest Road for about 4 Km. to a major intersection and a group of signs. Take the Selwyn Traverse, which is marked by signs, for about 1.5 km to a 1979 clear-cut that is now densely covered in young lodgepole pine trees. As you enter the old logging area, look for a pile of rocks and some signs marking the junction of the Selwyn Traverse and the Packsaddle Creek Loop. Follow the Packsaddle Creek Loop directly uphill and out of the logged area. The trail runs southeast through dense second-growth forest to the lip of Packsaddle Creek's ravine, where the roar of the creek far below is suddenly heard. Here descend past the South Ridge trail turnoff (may be unmarked) as the trail begins contouring along the hillside and down to the creek.
Hiking Time:
Allow 1.5 to 2 hours for the loop or 2 to 3 hours (return) to the first avalanche slope on the upper trail.
Trail Condition Update August 2005:
The Packsaddle Loop has a few windfalls across it at this writing. The Upper Packsaddle Creek Trail was brushed out to first avalanche slope December 2003. It needs another cleanup plus some surface work on side slopes that have slumped a bit and are hazardous in early spring when strong sunshine and trail traffic combine to create crazily sloping ice surfaces.
More Info / Photos: http://www.carsons.ca/packsaddle.htm
Bulldog Ridge Trail
Description:
Trail to alpine between Horse Creek (Kinbasket Lake) and Bulldog Creek. Spectacular displays of glacier lilies in late June at timberline. Beyond the timberline meadows, a group of three small hanging valleys offer lakes, summit climbs, and even a small glacier. Present trail (very rough and hard to find) leads to southernmost of the 3 valleys; no high-elevation access to the other two is possible from there.
Getting There:
Travel east through Valemount and cross the railroad tracks, then turn right on Whisky Fill Road. Follow Whisky Fill Road for approximately 3 Km. to Canoe Forest Road and turn left. Use headlights at all times and watch for logging trucks. Follow Canoe Forest Road for about 15 Km. to the Valemount Marina turnoff on Kinbasket Lake. Continue past the Marina turnoff for a short distance, then turn left on the "C" road (usually unmarked). Depending on the gradually worsening state of brush ingrowth along this road (and your attitude toward your vehicle's paint job) you may be able to follow the "C" road to the top of a ridge and hike the overgrown road down into the valley beyond. If not, prepare for a long bushwhack of the most difficult kind. Or perhaps turn back and send a report to the author of this guide (acarson@vis.bc.ca) stating that said author had better check this out (I haven't tried this since about 1999 - and a certain attitude toward my vehicle's paint job, mirrors and antenna was required even then).
If you have somehow made it to the high valley at the foot of the ridge, the next challenge is to ascend to the top of the highest logged areas beyond. At this writing, these early 1970's clear-cuts have passed their peak of impenetrable brush regrowth, and are beginning to develop a canopy and thin out again. The trail begins at top of fireguards or unused skid trails made by a bulldozer long ago in the tall forest above the logged off area. Find these steep bulldozer trails in the forest slightly to the right of the point where the old "C" road crosses the creek (a branch of Horse Creek) in the upper valley. The trail itself starts at a short wooden post held up by rocks at the highest point on the old bulldozer trails - a photo of this spot is available by e-mail (address above) on request, for location purposes.
Hiking Time:
Allow 3 to 5 hours round trip to the alpine, or longer if the upper sections of the "C" road are impassable to vehicles due to alder growth.
Lower West Ridge Loop #15
Description:
This trail was built by the Valemount Snow-Goers snowmobile club for snowmobile use in winter, but also makes a pleasant summer hike on a high, timbered bench of the Premier Range west of Valemount. The route connects two separate logging roads together atop the West Ridge bench. This article describes a clockwise loop from the West Ridge end. From the trailhead, cross Hystad Creek on a bridge made from an old railway flatcar, just downstream from a large water intake structure. Walk upstream along the far side of the pond formed by the dam. Turn left onto an old road not far upstream. From here the trail leads across brushy benchland and through an old burn, until views of the Robson Valley below are seen. A log-cabin warming shelter is passed.
Continue on the trail until you reach a logged area that has grown up in considerable brush. The trail follows a fireguard around the perimeter of the logged area, and then goes down the old haul road beyond it. Follow the haul road. It eventually makes a sudden left turn and begins its long descent to the McLennan Forest Road at the foot of the mountain.
Some of the woodland bogs you may find on the West Ridge Bench have considerable populations of two species of insect-eating plants of the sundew family - Drosera rotundifolia and Drosera anglica. These are small red and green plants covered in little blobs of sticky red goo on the ends of hairs. When an insect touches the hairs, they bend over and bring the blobs of goo down on top of the insect, forcing it against the upper surface of the leaves. The leaves then slowly enfold the insect and ooze juices that dissolve it. The leaves then soak up the bug juice and absorb nitrogen from it. D. rotundifolia has round leaves and D. anglica has longer, thinner leaves. Please leave these rare and unique plants undisturbed if you find some.
From March to June, it is common to see grizzly bears, including females with cubs, on or near the West Ridge road and the rest of the West Ridge benchlands. Use caution, especially if bicycling or doing other speedy activities.
Getting There:
1) To West Ridge Forest Road end (high altitude): Try to have a kind, self-sacrificing friend drive you here and then return by car, to avoid a second round trip to the same place later in the day to get the car. From Valemount, travel south to the first lighted intersection on highway 5 south of town, a distance of about 3 km. Here turn right, and follow dirt roads to a BC hydro substation, using the roadside hydro poles and overhead high tension wires as your guide. Continue on past the substation, where a sign indicates that you are now on the West Ridge forest road. Follow this as it switchbacks up onto the West Ridge. Finally you will travel on a nearly level grade for a few miles, with high peaks of the Premier Range on your left. Cross a small bridge, and begin to pay attention to the kilometer signs. A few metres past the Kilometre 13 sign, park at a side road which turns off to the right. Walk along this road past the Hystad Creek Hydroelectric intake dam and across a bridge made from a railway flatcar, just downstream of the dam. Do not go through or around the yellow gate, which is a maintenance access road for the hydroelectric plant. Instead, turn right (upstream) on the far side of the creek and watch for the trail ascending the hillside on your left about 200m upstream of the dam.
2) To McLennan Forest Road end (at valley floor level): Drive across Highway 5 from east to west at the main Valemount intersection (5th Avenue) and turn left along the frontage road parallel to the highway. At the end of the frontage road turn right onto Cranberry Lake Road. Follow this road for a few kilometers, and pass a sign that says, "end of maintained public road". Just past this sign is a "T" intersection with the McLennan Forest Road. Turn right, and follow this road for about 2 km. Just past a fenced field, begin watching for a little-used branch road angling uphill to the left. This is the foot of the trail. Park and proceed to the upper trailhead in another vehicle.
Hiking Time:
Allow 4 to 6 hours for hiking, and at least three quarters of an hour for vehicle placement and travel to the trailhead.
Mount Trudeau Trail # 14
Description:
This trail was built by Joe Nusse, Noland Germain and crew in the early 2000's. It begins near km 14.5 on the West Ridge Forest Road and ascends through old logging. Crossing a creek on a foot-log, the trail climbs steeply to high benchlands and arrives at open subalpine wetlands in the basin above. Near the upper end of the basin is a small round lake, which is a popular swimming spot for whole families of hikers in summer. This basin is also frequented by whole families of grizzly bears, so it is advisable to look for recent signs of grizzlies such as tracks or scats, and if something recent is noticed, perhaps plan to continue your hike another day. August is probably the most bear-free month in this basin but bears may be seen here whenever they are not hibernating.
Dominating the upper end of this basin is a mountain known unofficially as Ski Hill Mountain, referring to an abandoned proposal from the 1990's to build a ski hill near the basin. This mountain is one of the peaks of the Premier Range, many of which are named after former Prime ministers of Canada. At this writing, local efforts are under way to have it named Mount Pierre Trudeau.
On a bench part way up the headwall are several alpine lakes including a couple of quite sizeable ones. Beyond the lakes, it is possible to scramble to the summit of the mountain by climbing directly up from the lakes, although there are a few feet of somewhat exposed scrambling just below the summit. A less exposed route exists on the opposite side of the peak. Ascend from the upper lakes to a low point in the ridge to the right of the main peak, cross a large snowfield and circle around behind the peak. Traverse around another ridge until overlooking the headwaters of Hystad Creek, and then work your way up toward the main peak, gaining the ridge-top about 200m below the summit and following it to the peak. From this description you can see that a traverse of the peak is possible, beginning and ending at the Ski Hill Mountain trailhead and looping over the peak to and from the upper lakes.
Getting There:
Same as for the West Ridge Loop (high altitude end) above, except continue on the West Ridge Forest Road to the Ski Hill Mountain trailhead at about km. 14.5.
Hiking Time:
Allow about 3 to 4 hours for the round trip to and from the lower lake, plus time to go swimming or enjoy the flowers and scenery. Another 2 to 3 hours will be needed to visit the upper lakes and return. The peak can be climbed by strong hikers in a reasonable full day.
West Ridge Y.O.R.A. Hut Trail #16
Description:
An open alpine area is accessible from the YORA West Ridge Cabin (for overnight stays or directions to the cabin, contact YORA, or inquire locally to find out where to register). From the cabin, walk directly uphill through parklike subalpine areas until you reach the timberline. Here you can explore an extensive alpine bench and some ridges and gullies. A small lake is a nice destination or lunch stop. The trails you may notice near the lake are heli-hiking routes used by Canadian Mountain Holidays. You could encounter a group of guided heli-hikers in this area. You'll probably find their guides friendly and happy to describe the area briefly for you.
Getting There:
As for West Ridge Forest Road above, but follow the "CMH Cariboos" signs. Trailhead is approximately 15.5 km. up the Cariboo Lodge Road and marked with a BC forest service trail sign and the "hiking man" symbol. Caution: Some helpful people have been known to confuse this trail with the Lower West Ridge loop (previous page) and vice versa, resulting in wrong directions being given.
Hiking times:
Allow about 3 hours to reach the cabin. The trail is very steep in places. It is only about a 10 to 20 minute hike from the West Ridge cabin to timberline. From there, simply watch the time as you wander, and allow sufficient time for your return.
Mount Diefenbaker
A long trail has been partially constructed to this recently named peak of the Cariboo Mountains south of the Canoe River and west of Camp Creek. It is named after former Canadian prime minister John Diefenbaker. As a young lawyer, Diefenbaker was involved in litigation following a serious train collision on the lower slopes of this mountain south of Valemount. A stone monument and brass plaques mark the site of the collision near the Canoe River.
The intent of the trail is to allow snowmobile-assisted snowboarding and other winter sports. The trail leaves the BC Hydro transmission line right of way south of the upper Canoe River and crosses through the woods past some small-scale cedar harvesting areas, connecting to an old logging road which accesses two large old cutblocks on the mountain slopes above Camp Creek. Just before these logged areas, the trail turns right onto a very grown-in logging road, which was cleared to some extent by a bulldozer in the early 2000's but is rapidly filling in with brush again. This road traverses the slopes above the Canoe River and finally turns up the locally named Crystal Creek which flows north from Crystal Peak's large and prominent glacier. The trail is currently being built from the end of this road network up to the alpine.
As this trail may eventually prove to be difficult to maintain for summer use, a summer route is being investigated from one of two trailhead sites: either slightly further south on the powerline than the present trailhead (where the terrain is somewhat drier) or crossing Camp Creek at a paved highway pullout south of the Highway 5 Camp Creek Bridge and ascending along Gold Creek before contouring onto the same bench the powerline is on at the current trailhead. The latter idea has a significant problem in that it crosses the mainline of the Canadian National Railway and it is not known whether an arrangement with CN could be worked out. This route has been flagged as far as the bench mentioned, with a branch to an open viewpoint above. The route from the powerline has not been flagged at this writing. Either route would probably ascend the stream between the two large cutblocks above Camp Creek, from where a ridge walk and a couple of moderate scrambles would give access to Crystal Peak.
Getting There:
Please note that ascending this peak may involve bushwhacking through difficult north-facing slope brush at present. To access the existing trailhead and the proposed north access for summer use, take the first right turn off Highway 5 south of the Canoe River Bridge on Highway 5 south of Valemount. As you cross the tracks, the stone monument mentioned above will be on your left. Continue up the road to a BC Hydro powerline. Vehicles without four-wheel drive should be parked here. Ascend the powerline right-of-way about 0.5 km in a southerly direction to the top of a hill. An old road goes into the forest on the right (west) side of the powerline at the top of the hill. A short distance into the trees along this old road, the trail branches off to the left.
The proposed summer access from the north would probably leave the powerline about 300m further south and ascend a slight ridge.
The only way to examine the flagged access idea on the east side of the mountain at present is to cross Camp Creek somehow at a paved pullout on highway 5, about 2 km. south of the Camp Creek Bridge south of Valemount. On the far side of the creek, the flagging follows a haul road and then a skid trail that arrives at the CNR mainline just north of Gold Creek. On the other side of the tracks an old road ascends the hill and heads toward Gold Creek, and the flagged route follows this almost to the creek. It then heads upstream through pleasant old-growth forest and then makes a turn to the right and contours up onto the bench above the tracks. On arriving at the bench, a side trail has been flagged past some huge boulders scattered in the forest and up to the top of a rockslide where a pleasant view across the Camp Creek valley to Canoe Mountain and beyond may be had. The main route is flagged for some distance along the bench in a northerly direction. From there the route has not been determined.
Hiking Time:
Hardly any, but hours and hours of bushwhacking time! This area is included in the guide because it is likely that one or more of the routes described here will soon become a practical trail through the efforts of local groups. At present, strong hikers can visit the peak and return in a long day.
Robena Lakes and Monashee Divide
Description:
A beautiful alpine area accessible from the "Keyhole" area south of Valemount or from YORA's Clemina Cabin. For booking info & directions to the cabin, contact YORA or inquire locally to find out where to register.
If starting from the Keyhole area, find a quad trail along a re-landscaped logging road right-of-way near the upper right hand corner of the Keyhole logging road network. Where this road makes a switchback to the left, look for a "de facto" footpath and some flagging on the bank above the switchback. This marks the start of your route through relatively open forest to the treeline not far above. Traverse to the right to some degree as you climb and study the topography on a map.
From the Y.O.R.A. Clemina Cabin, take the water-source trail behind the cabin. Cross two footbridges within 150m of the cabin to a fork in the rough trail. The right fork ascends the water supply stream. It has received little maintenance and may be hard to find in a few places. It generally follows the stream above the cabin and is the recommended route to the treeline. The left fork passes through a brushy, rapidly regenerating logged area and ascends the next stream beyond. This trail could possibly be re-routed across a convenient bench above the logged area in future, since the portion beyond the logging is still in fair condition, but the traverse north from the cabin may be difficult.
Still further to the north, beyond Robena Creek, is the "Keyhole" route described above. If planning a loop hike, be aware you may have difficulty finding any of these routes and trails from the top end if you are not familiar with them.
Many different hiking routes are possible above the treeline. One suggested route is as follows: Arriving in the alpine, traverse to Robena Creek's basin, ascending as you go and reaching the summit of the Monashee Range directly above Robena Creek. Far below to the east is Kinbasket Lake, part of the Columbia River watershed. A shorter distance below, and well within reach of a vigorous day hike from the cabin or the Keyhole area, the Robena Lakes can be seen. These alpine tarns actually drain down the opposite side of the Monashee Range from Robena Creek.
Remembering that the return trip will be uphill back to this point, it is possible to descend and visit the lakes. The descent may be made at the left or right corners of the basin, but not in the middle directly above the lakes, where a cliff bars the way. Descending into the right hand or south end of the basin can be a bit of a scramble, minimized by good route-finding. The north side is much easier, if you follow a ridge for some distance around the basin and descend the fairly gentle scree slopes northeast of the lakes.
Two large lakes in the middle of the basin are connected by a waterfall. There is a smaller lake in subalpine forest beyond the lower lake, and also a hidden lake off to the right (when looking down toward Kinbasket), somewhat higher than the main lakes, and out along the ridge toward Kinbasket Lake. This lake, if you are able to find it, will reward you with marvelous echoes off the sheer cliffs behind it.
It is possible to descend to the West Canoe forest road far below by following the creek down from the lakes, but the route is a steep and brushy bushwhack. However my first exploration of this basin was from the Kinbasket Lake side and the return trip that day was back down the same way. Brush made it necessary to walk in the creek bed there. I had seen the basin and planned my approach to it while operating a machine near the Bulldog Ridge trailhead about 12 km. up the "C" road, when it was a broad and nicely graded gravel haul road. To figure out how long ago that was, check the Bulldog Ridge trail description and try driving there now...
Getting There:
(1) To Y.O.R.A. Clemina Cabin: To get to the cabin, drive 32 km south of Valemount to the Clemina Forest Service Road #1360. 3.2 km. up the 1360 road, turn left onto a branch road. Continue to stay left until you begin to see #18a trail signs which will show you the way to the cabin. You will need to decide when to park and start walking depending on your vehicle type. Please note that this cabin is several tens of kilometres from the Clemina snowmobiler's cabin, so if receiving directions from a local person, check to make sure you're not being directed to the wrong cabin by mistake.
(2) To the Keyhole area: The logging road that leads to the Keyhole alpine area is on the left (east) side of Highway 5 about 23 km. south of Valemount. "Take the high road" at logging road intersections and look for a re-lanscaped road near the upper right hand corner of the road network. This former road has been reduced in width to form a narrow trail traversing to the right across the slope.
Hiking Time:
Allow about 2 hours one way to the alpine from the cabin, and about 8 hours to visit the lakes on the Kinbasket side and return to the cabin. Shorten these times by about 1 hour each way from the Keyhole access road.
Canoe Mountain Road #1
Description:
This gravel road climbs steeply for about 12.8 kilometers to the summit of Canoe Mountain, the northernmost extremity of the Monashee Range. The road ends at 8,500 feet above sea level, where a telecommunications facility perches on the edge of a precipice. The road may be hiked but there is a possibility of encountering four wheel drive vehicles or ATVs at any point on the route. At about the 10.5 kilometer point, the road traverses a broad, treeless alpine meadow known locally as the "Golf Course". A hike of about 1 hour south from the road leads to the south end of the meadow and across slopes and gullies beyond, to a ravine containing some interesting alpine lakes and waterfalls. A switchback in the road at approximately 11.7 kilometers provides a fine view of the lakes in the ravine far below, and the Cariboo Mountains to the west. From the summit, Kinbasket Lake and the Selwyn range of the Rockies are spread out before you. On clear days, Mount Robson may be clearly seen. The great slash of the Rocky Mountain Trench stretches far to the north. On a few exceptionally clear days of the year, Mount Sir Alexander may be visible in the extreme distance up the Trench. At the summit, a memorial has been constructed to Daniel Cantin, who fell to his death nearby when a snow cornice collapsed under him a few years ago.
Like all Valley-to-peak hikes in the area, this route takes you through a succession of different ecosystems, from dry lodgepole pine forest at the bottom, through the dense greenery of a regenerating forest fire area, into brushy subalpine forest with increasing areas of spectacular wildflower meadow. Clumps of small subalpine firs dot the slopes and gullies at the timberline. A variety of dry and wet areas on the "Golf Course" and around the lakes support many different kinds of alpine plants, while at the summit, brave but tiny grasses, lichens, mosses and herbs make a thin carpet over much of the frost-shattered rock and gravel.
Getting There:
Travel south from Valemount on Highway 5 for 15.4 Km. Here a metal shed on your left as you travel south marks the foot of the Canoe Mountain Road.
Hiking Time:
Allow a full day for the round trip.
Numbered trails in the Friends of Valemount Brochure not described in detail here:
Spittal Creek Trail #10 - An old BC Forest Service interpretive site, now defunct, footbridges removed.
Jackman Flats Provincial Park #13 - Like other park trails, not described here - see BC Parks info.
Allan Creek Snowmobile Alpine Area #17 - Has potential for summer hiking - see FOV brochure.
Clemina Creek Snowmobile Area - Dixon Glacier #18 - Ditto.
Hiking Trails in Mount Robson Park
-Check the various park brochures available.
-Mt. Robson Park official website: http://wlapwww.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/mtrobson.htm.
-Visit Mt. Robson Park Visitor Centre and ask for more information.
Other possibilities
Some of the finest high- country destinations - those seen by few if any previous hikers - require that you put up with a few hours of bushwhacking to gain entry. Email me at acarson@vis.bc.ca for some ideas.
EXTENDED BACKPACKING TRIPS
The author's preference for a means of navigation in these mostly untracked areas is a printed topographical map at 1:50,00 scale and a good GPS. For the type of exploration described below, I recommend developing the habit of maintaining a mental picture of the terrain based on a hierarchy of water drainage areas - Rivers, streams, tributaries and their tributaries etc. The terminology used to describe routes in this guide is largely based on this method.
I carry a compass but rarely find occasion to use it.
A GPS is useful, particularly if your map has the blue UTM grid of one-kilometer squares printed on it. Use the GPS in conjunction with your topo map. If the map lacks the blue UTM squares, it will be necessary to find a straightedge to project the map-edge latitude and longitude markings across the map. Set the GPS to the co-ordinates being used - either the blue UTM squares or latitude and longitude.
Valemount to Red Pass or Mount Robson across the Selwyn Range
(Partially within Mt. Robson Park)
Description:
This expedition may begin at any of the trails leading up to the timberline on the Selwyn Range adjacent to Valemount. This is the Canadian Rockies at its most pristine and spectacular. For the serious backpacker, a world of alpine lakes, basins, rushing streams, waterfalls and meadows stretches for 20 to 30 kilometers north and east from Valemount. Apart from the initial 4,000-foot climb to timberline, elevation changes in a typical day will be in the neighborhood of 500 to 1,000 feet lost and a similar amount gained. Destinations must be selected taking into account crossing the Fraser River or Moose Lake. It is quite easy to place a canoe as a means of exit from the hike, by paddling it solo, leaving it in the woods at the foot of the Selwyns and having a friend along with a second canoe for the return trip. If spotting a canoe along the Fraser River below Moose Lake you must have sufficient river experience to be able to select a relatively calm stretch where you have ample safety margin to complete the ferrying maneuver before being swept into faster water or logjams. There is whitewater in the area below Moose Lake, which is no place for a flat-water type of canoe, and several kilometers below is Overlander Falls. The lake can be hazardous also, due to sudden storms, particularly at the public boat launch area. The safest canoe crossing method is to cross the Fraser River within 2 km. of either end of the lake where there is little current and it is unnecessary to venture far from the nearest shore.
The Mount Robson area is also a suitable destination for hikes through the Selwyns from Valemount. Hargreaves Road crosses the Fraser here. It should be noted that 2 to 3 hours of difficult bushwhacking is required to descend from the Selwyn range at any point in the area mentioned. To avoid bushwhacking, see the Swift Creek Circle route below, which covers much of the same alpine country but is somewhat longer. There is some commercial recreational use of the area; however, this is essentially wilderness, and backpackers here would be wise to be totally self-reliant and not to expect to encounter anyone or get any kind of outside emergency assistance. A satellite phone might come in handy; a cell phone is not likely to work from the majority of this route.
See also the description of the Swift Creek Circle (next page).
Swift Creek Circle (Partially within Mt. Robson Park)
Description:
This extended alpine and subalpine backpacking trip circumnavigates the watershed of Swift Creek near Valemount. 5 days or more are required to allow a reasonably leisurely pace. The route passes through the same territory as the above Valemount-to-Red Pass traverse of the Selwyn Range of the Rockies (see above description), with the added advantage that good trails exist from valley floor to timberline at both ends of the trip.
The trip ends with a descent to the valley floor only 10 kilometers from the starting point. It does not cross major rivers, making logistics relatively simple.
For detailed information on routes, times, and possible guiding services, contact the author at (250) 566-4694 or email acarson@vis.bc.ca.
Those wishing to take part in horse trekking or horseback trips in the Valemount area may contact Headwaters Outfitting at 566-4718 (http://www.davehenry.com) or Borderline Guides/Snow Farmers at 566-9161 (http://www.snowfarmers.com).
Backpacking in Mount Robson Park
Check the various park brochures available. For more detailed information, the Mt. Robson Park Visitor Centre at Mt. Robson can provide information sheets for most major trails in the park.
Visit http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/mt_robson/
A Little Further Afield
Most hiking guidebooks for the Canadian Rockies to date use the Berg Lake Trail, Mount Robson and Jasper's North Boundary Trail as the northern limit of their coverage. But what secrets the old-time guides and outfitters knew about the regions beyond! North from Mount Robson stretches a vast sweep of the Continental Divide where traditional outfitting trails have changed little in the past century. Here lies history, adventure, and the grandeur of the Canadian Rockies little touched by man - yet. With little public knowledge of these areas, there is little political pressure to protect them, though governments have provided some protection against large-scale human modifications to certain areas such as Willmore, Kakwa and Monkman parks.
PRINTED AND ON-LINE INFORMATION SOURCES
No promotion of specific services, individuals and/or organizations is implied. This is a brief, somewhat random listing. Many other resources exist that aren't listed here.
From Monkman Park to Pine Pass, Dr. Charles Helm's book Tumbler Ridge: Enjoying its History, Trails and Wilderness is an excellent guide. At this writing it is available in Tumbler Ridge for $38.00 including GST at the Chamber of Commerce, the Community Center, Koals True Value Hardware, Tags Food and Gas and the Tumbler Ridge Inn, or from MCA Publishing at (250) 242-4389, toll free at 1-888-942-9922 or email lfunk@pris.bc.ca. See also the Wolverine Nordic and Mountain Society Web Site at http://www.pris.bc.ca/wnms/index.html.
Ray Rasmussen's Willmore Wilderness page has a lot of information and some fine photos. http://www.raysweb.net/willmore/.
Excellent mapping resources are available on the Web that can help plan your explorations in the mountains.
Google Earth is useful in that it can show you what the terrain looks like in 3-D from various points of view, and recently the free version has been given some of the GPS capability that paid versions have had. Owners of a Garmin or Magellan GPS can view their travels in 3D on Google Earth. Resolution for most of our area is excellent, with individual trees visible. Google Earth has the ability to take you on a flight through terrain and to zoom the display in and out to a very large extent very quickly. If you have high speed internet, it is recommended that you use the maximum detail for showing elevation, otherwise mountains are likely to look strange. If you ever wondered what the cow that jumped over the moon might have seen along the way, you can start in a local cow pasture and find out. http://earth.google.com
Fugawi and Ozi Explorer map software lets you do such fun stuff as to scan a paper map into your computer and display data from your GPS on the map to show your travels. Maps and air photos of any kind can be used. http://www.fugawi.com http://www.oziexplorer.com/
Trail condition updates and other info can be found at http://www.carsons.ca/mtnmania.htm.
Map & photos of numbered trails in this guide: http://www.valemount.com/trailsandattractions.
The author of this guide can be reached by email at acarson@vis.bc.ca.
Thanks to Barb Janzen and the BC Forest Service for providing information on trails originally built by B.C.F.S. and to the Village of Valemount Recreation Department staff for researching highway mileages, etc.
Listings herein are provided for information only, and are as accurate as possible at the time research was done. No responsibility for these trails, or their use, is implied.
Art Carson 2009
